Thursday, October 31, 2013

Create A Fencedin Dog Pen

A dog pen gives your pet a place to play outside.


Dogs like to spend some time outdoors just like you do. The American Kennel Club says you should never let your dog run loose. Many local jurisdictions have ordinances requiring you to keep your dog on a leash or confined. Making a fenced in dog pen is a good way to let your dog spend time outside without having to wear a leash. Select a safe location such as your backyard and be sure the pen includes both sunny and shady areas. Install a doghouse or some other form of shelter.


Instructions


1. Mark off the area you want to fence in to make the dog pen. Mark the corners with wooden stakes. Place a stake at each spot at which you plan to install a fence post. Tie a string between the stakes to indicate the boundaries of the pen.


2. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the dog pen at least 12 inches deep. Dogs can dig under a fence that stops at ground level. Extending the fence at least a foot below ground keeps most dogs from digging a hole and getting loose. Dig a post hole at each point where you placed a stake. The post holes should be at the bottom of the trench and extend at least 12 inches below the bottom of the trench.


3. Set each fence post into its post hole. Mix concrete according to the manufacturer's instructions and fill the post holes to anchor the fence posts in place. In most cases you will need about 20 pounds of concrete per post hole. Allow the concrete to set overnight.


4. Attach the welded wire fencing to the fence posts using baling wire. Welded wire fencing comes in rolls. The easiest way to install welded wire fencing is to anchor one end of the roll to a fence post and then unroll the fencing and stretch it from one post to the next. Secure the fencing to each post with baling wire as you come to it. Make sure the bottom edge of the fencing is at the bottom of the trench. Cut a section of fencing to fit in the trench in the gap where you plan to install the gate. Anchor this piece of fencing to the adjoining fence posts.


5. Fill in the trench. Pack the soil down tightly. You might want to wet the soil in the trench with a garden hose. This will help you pack it down more firmly.


6. Install a gate for the dog pen. Nail four pieces of lumber together to form a rectangle the size and shape of the space you left in the fence for the gate. Fasten fencing to this rectangular frame. Follow manufacturer's instructions to attach the gate hinges and latch.



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Leave Your Pet With Buddies For Travel

Leave your dog with a friend when you go on vacation.


You have big vacations plans for your family, but unfortunately, those plans do not include Fido. You do not want to spend any time worrying about your dog while you are on your trip; that would defeat the purpose of the vacation. Boarding your dog at a facility or hiring a house sitter are options, but some people don't feel comfortable with these choices. If you fall into this category, consider leaving your dog with a friend.


Instructions


1. Select a friend that enjoys dogs and has an animal-friendly home and, preferably, securely fenced yard. Choose someone you trust that knows the basics of dog care and has the time to provide adequate attention while you are away.


2. Take your dog to visit your friend. The transition from your home to your friend's home will be less stressful if your dog is already familiar with the surroundings. Also, socialize your dog with your friend's pets, if she has any.


3. Supply your friend with some of your dog's items--bed, kennel, leash, collar, favorite toys, food bowl and an item of clothing that has your smell on it--which will help him feel comfortable. In addition, bring an adequate supply of your dog's specific food, as a sudden change in diet can upset his stomach.


4. Write down information that your friend can reference while you are away, including the name and phone number of your veterinarian and contact you while you are traveling. If your pet requires any medication, provide written instructions on dosage and administration. In addition, note your dog's habits and schedule.


5. Relax and enjoy your travels. You have entrusted a friend to take care of your dog, so you don't need to worry.


6. Show your appreciation to your friend for taking care of your dog. A gift, dinner out, or an offer to reciprocate somehow is a nice gesture and will ensure that your friend feels appreciated; and more likely to dog sit in the future.









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Puppy Lemon Laws and regulations In Wisconsin

Wisconsin is among several states that have enacted a puppy lemon law in response to abuses by commercial puppy breeders. Seventeen states, including New York, Pennsylvania and Florida, have such laws. Overbreeding and inbreeding are not only cruel to the dogs, but they often produce unhealthy, malformed puppies that are sold to the public. Dogs from puppy mills can cost thousands of dollars in vet bills because of genetic diseases and poor care.


Licensing


Wisconsin's law, called AB-250/SB-208, the Commercial Dog Breeders Licensure Bill, states that those who sell dogs or run animal shelters or control facilities must be licensed by the Department of Agriculture. Those required to be licensed are: anyone who sells 25 or more dogs a year; anyone who operates a dog breeding facility that sells 25 or more dogs a year; anyone operating an auction at which 50 or more dogs are offered for sale in a year; anyone who runs a shelter with at least 25 dogs in a year; and anyone who runs an animal control facility contracting with any city, village, town or county.


Sale


Wisconsin law now states that a licensed dog breeder many not transfer a dog to a buyer until the puppy is at least 7 weeks old. The breeder must give the buyer a copy of vaccination records and a statement from a vet that the dog is free of contagious disease. The law prohibits any dog to be sold at auction unless the animal has tested negative for brucellosis. Anyone who sells a dog at a flea market or any other temporary dog market must provide information about the dog to the owner of the market. The owner of the market must register with the Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection (DATCP), and keep that information on file. If the dogs are offered for sale on two or more consecutive days, a veterinarian must examine the dogs.


Standards of Care


Licensed dog breeders must provide dogs with adequate food, water, health care, shelter, and exercise. Enclosures must be large enough for the dogs, and they must be structurally sound. The enclosures must be clean, and the use of wire flooring must adhere to restrictions. The dogs must be observed every day, to check the health and emotional state of the animal, and to provide any necessary care.









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Make Use Of An Invisible Fence With Border Collies

As a species, border collies are lively and quick to learn.


An invisible fence is designed to keep your dogs in a designated perimeter using a specialized collar and radio signals. A wire marks the dog's acceptable boundaries, and the collar offers a brief, harmfulless shock when the dog crosses those boundaries. With the right training exercises, your border collies will learn the boundaries and stay within them on their own. You can buy invisible fence systems at most pet supply stores or online.


Instructions


Setting up Your System


1. Choose your dog's boundaries. Keep in mind that border collies are disciplined, active dogs bred to herd sheep. They need lots of exercise and room to run.


2. Plug the invisible fence system's transmitter into an electrical outlet in your backyard or garage.


3. Run the provided wire from the transmitter all the way around the area your dog is permitted to roam. You can bury the wire or secure it to yard features like hedges or flower beds. Make sure the wire loops back to the transmitter, forming a closed loop.


4. Outline your dog's new boundaries with a visual marker to help him learn how far he's allowed to go. Yard flags or wooden stakes work well for this.


5. Put the invisible fence system's provided collar on your dog. Most systems offer a warning beep when the dog approaches its boundary.


Training


6. Teach your collie to retreat when he hears the collar's warning beep. Walk your dog toward the boundary until his collar beeps. Turn around quickly and walk in the opposite direction. If he follows without tugging or straining, give him a treat and praise. Repeat this procedure until the dog can hear the beep on his own and move backward from the electronic boundary.


7. Teach your dog to remain behind the boundary even when people, other dogs or toys are present. Start by performing the above test while a neighbor or child walks by. Praise and reward your dog for turning away from the boundary. If your dog tries to leave the boundary, wait for the collar to deliver a small shock and guide him back to the center of the yard.


8. Add further distractions to your basic test, repeating them until your dog consistently stays within his boundaries. Throw a ball from inside the yard to the street. Ask someone to ride a bike past your house, and be sure to have someone from inside your house walk out past your dog's boundaries. If he can pass all these tests, it's a good bet he's ready for you to remove the visual markers.


9. Remove the visual markers one or two at a time, over a period of a week. Perform additional tests to make sure your dog's behavior doesn't change without the markers.


10. Give your dog small amounts of supervised off-leash yard time. Watch him at all times. If he tries to go beyond the boundary more than once, put him back on the leash. Gradually increase the amount of off-leash time.


11. Give your collie unsupervised off-leash yard time. Watch from indoors and monitor his behavior when you're not there. If he's successful, gradually increase the amount of unsupervised yard time.









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Adopt A Maltese

Adopting a Maltese is worth the effort. You will save a life. If you adopt a Maltese from a rescue group, you should learn important information about the behavior and personality of the dog. Most rescue groups foster dogs with families until new homes are found. There are thousands of Maltese and Maltese mixes that need new homes. Adopting a Maltese that fits with your personality and lifestyle will lead to years of happy companionship.


Instructions


1. Educate yourself about the Maltese breed. Get a good book about Maltese at a bookstore or talk with friends who own a Maltese. Even better, ask if you can doggy-sit a friend's dog for a day or two. Maltese are small dogs; usually they weigh 5 to 10 lbs. They are known not to do well with children because they are snappy. They are good dogs for apartment living because they do not need lots of exercise.


2. Contact a Maltese rescue group, which specializes in Maltese and Maltese mixes. The rescue group will ask that you complete a questionnaire. This is necessary so you can be matched with a dog that will work out in your home. The rescue will conduct an interview and contact your references. Many groups also visit the home of the prospective adopter to make certain the home is safe for the dog. The process for adopting through a rescue can take a few days; however, if the group is able to get you a good match, it is worth the wait.


3. Search for a Maltese in an all-breed rescue group. Not all adoptable Maltese are in Maltese rescue groups. Many Maltese are placed in new homes through all-breed dog rescue groups. All-breed rescue groups do not specialize in any one breed, but instead help many different breeds and mixes. It is easy to locate an available Maltese through www.petfinder.com, an online shelter portal. You can search on petfinder.com by location, breed, age and even gender.


4. Call your veterinarian or other pet care professional. Veterinarians, groomers and kennel operators often are asked by clients to help find homes for pets.


5. Visit your local animal shelter. Although it is rare, occasionally a purebred Maltese will end up in a shelter. This is more common in large animal shelters. Finding a nice Maltese mix is more likely. Adopting a dog from an animal shelter is truly saving a life. It is estimated that between 5 million and 7 million pets die in United States shelters every year. Approximately 25 percent of the animals in shelters are purebred.









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Kennel A Kitten Throughout Your Day

Make sure the crate is the right size to keep your cat in all day.


Small kittens often hide in the tiniest of places -- under a bed, behind a couch, in a kitchen cabinet behind the pots and pans. They can play all day and all night and get into all kinds of dangerous mischief. Crate training -- or kenneling -- your kitten while you are gone during the day teaches your little cat to get into a carrier when you need to transport it and keeps the kitten from harming itself. It can also give you peace of mind while your pet is unsupervised.


Instructions


1. Set your kitten up with a pet kennel or crate large enough to hold everything you are going to put in it and still allow the kitten to move around comfortably.


2. Line the crate with old newspapers to save on cleanup.


3. Fill a small litter box with kitty litter and place it in the back of the crate. Cats prefer privacy when eliminating and your kitten is more likely to use the litter box away from prying eyes.


4. Put the pillow or blanket close to the front of the crate so that the kitten can see outside while it is resting.


5. Add several toys to the crate to keep your kitten's mind occupied while you are gone.


6. Set a water bowl and food dish next to the cat bed and add adequate free-choice food and water. Your kitten will need the water to stay hydrated during the day and should not go without food for longer than two to three hours. Small kittens can become hypoglycemic and die if they don't eat regularly.


7. Position the crate in a quiet room away from drafts to protect your kitten from upper respiratory infections.









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Train A Blue Heeler To Remain

Teach your blue heeler the "stay" command.


The name "blue heeler" refers to a breed of dog called the Australian cattle dog. The American Kennel Club describes the breed as being intelligent, energetic and stubborn. To get an Australian cattle dog to respond to commands it is important to be patient and consistent with obedience training. Training can begin when the puppy reaches eight weeks of age. The command "stay" can be taught effectively by using a positive reinforcement-based training exercise.


Instructions


1. Train your Australian cattle dog to sit and lie down on command before attempting to teach it the "stay" command. Do this by taking the dog to a quiet area of the house where there will be less distractions. Hold a special treat in your hand, such as a small piece of chicken or cheese. Wait for the dog to sit down naturally then say the word "sit" and reward the dog by giving it the treat and lots of praise. Repeat this exercise several times until the dog begins to associate the command with the action. Train the dog to lie down by waiting for it to practice the action naturally before saying, "lie down," and rewarding the dog with a treat and lots of praise. Again, repeat the exercise until the dog associates the command with the action.


2. Get your blue heeler to sit or lie down and stand in front of it with the palm of one hand in front of its face. Take a step backward and if your dog manages to stay in the desired position say the word "stay" and reward it with a treat and lots of verbal praise. Say, "okay," to release the dog from the stay command. Avoid treating the dog after it has been released from the stay command as this might confuse the dog.


3. Repeat the training exercise while slowly increasing the number of steps you take when moving away from the dog. Once your dog has mastered this, you can begin to increase the duration of time you ask it to stay. LoveYourDog.com recommends that you gradually increase the amount of time to help your dog succeed. Eventually, your dog should learn to respond to the "stay" command by remaining in one place until you release it from the command.









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Measure For Crates

Measure for Crates


Keeping your dog safely contained is an essential part of responsible pet ownership. Many owners choose to keep their dog inside a secure fence while at home, while others use tie outs or chains to contain their pets. Dog crates come in all shapes and sizes and a crate is an excellent tool for securing your dog while at home or on the road. Measuring your dog for a crate is not difficult, but is necessary to make sure you purchase the right size crate.


Instructions


1. Buckle your dog's collar on him and attach his lead. The collar and lead will make it much easier for you to control him and keep him still while you measure him.


2. Hold the measuring tape in one hand and place the free end at the front edge of your dog's shoulder, pulling it straight back to the base of his tail. This will give you the length measurement for your crate. You will need to add two inches to the length for small and medium breeds and six inches for large breeds to allow the dog room to turn around.


3. Place the tape at the top of the shoulder and measure down to the floor to get a proper height measurement. Add three inches for small and medium breeds and six inches for large breeds to give the dog plenty of room if he wants to stand up.


4. Reward your dog with a treat or two when he stands quietly and calmly. It can be difficult for many dogs to stand still while being handled and measured, and rewarding him for a job well done will keep him happy while you work.


5. Write your measurements down so you do not forget them. Crates come in many types and sizes, and knowing exactly how large your dog is will ensure that you order the proper crate for your canine companion.



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Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Build An InternalOrOutdoors Dog Kennel

Building a dog run that has an inside and outside portion can be done many ways. Using a pre-made doghouse can save a lot of time, but is not necessary. Having a dog run that allows the dog to get out of the elements is a great way to improve the health of your dog. The run portion of the enclosure can be as big as space allows or as materials allow you to build.


Instructions


Build the kennel


1. Locate the area of the yard you wish to use for the dog run. Putting the run near the house cuts back on the number of supplies needed as you already have a wall. For the outdoor part of the run, dirt is preferred to cement.


2. Place the doghouse in the appropriate orientation. You can purchase ready-made doghouses made of wood or plastic, or you can build your own. Custom doghouses require more labor, but can be made to best suit your dog.


3. Dig 1-foot-deep holes at 5-foot intervals around the desired perimeter of the run, making sure that they encompass the doghouse. For the gate to the run, dig two post holes along the perimeter that are 3 feet apart.


4. Cut the 2 x 4 into 6-foot lengths. You will need to cut as many as you have dug holes for. This will vary on the size of your enclosure. Place a length of 2 x 4 in each hole, then pack around the base with dirt to secure.


5. Attach the wire mesh to the 2 x 4 with the staple gun so that the mesh touches the ground while it runs from post to post. Choose a wire that is strong enough for your dog. Thicker wire is needed for larger dogs.


6. Build the gate by cutting two 2½-foot lengths and two 5-foot lengths of 2 x 4. Screw them together to form a rectangle, then attach wire mesh to the rectangle. Use the hinges and screws to attach the door you just built to the section of fenceline where the posts are 3 feet apart. Attach the latch to secure the door,



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Crate Training Your Dog During The Night

Crate training is a great way to housebreak your dog


Crate training is a way to housebreak your dog, and to provide it with a safe, comfortable place to sleep. The crate must be large enough to accommodate your dog, and placement of the crate can vary based on your dog's reaction to the training.


Chosing a Crate


Purchase a crate that is large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in. If you have a large-breed puppy, purchase a crate to accommodate the full-grown breed and use dividers to make the space intimate until the dog is big enough to be in the full crate on its own. Too much room in the crate will allow the puppy to defecate in one corner and sleep in the other, which is contrary to housebreaking your pet.


General Training


Make the crate a safe, happy place for your puppy. If you intend to use the crate for potty training and for sleeping overnight, never use the crate as a form of punishment. Place a soft blanket or dog bed inside the crate as well as a few of your pup's favorite toys.


In the beginning, leave the crate door open and allow your dog to investigate the area on its own. Eventually you can begin closing the crate door and leaving your dog in it for short spurts of time.


Nighttime Training


Nighttime training not only provides you with the knowledge of knowing that your pup is safe, but it also helps with housebreaking and keeps your dog from getting into trouble (chewing furniture, chasing cats, etc.) while you sleep.


When you begin overnight training, start with the crate in your bedroom so the puppy feels comfortable. Take your dog outside to go potty before you put it in the crate for the night.


When you go to bed, have the puppy go into the crate and praise it for sitting inside the cage. Gently close the door and walk away.


Whining


Most dogs will whine after being left in a crate, especially the first few times. Try to ignore the whining and the dog will eventually stop if it is just testing you. If you think it may need to go outside, use a phrase it associates with going outside and see if the dog gets excited. If it does, take it outside; if not, leave it in the crate. Whining is common, especially among puppies, but proper training includes letting the pup get used to the crate, even when it complains.


Anxiety


Some dogs with separation anxiety do not do well in crates. Using the crate in order to prevent destruction of your home when you are gone will not solve your dog's anxiety issues. Talk to your veterinarian before attempting this technique with your anxious dog.


Crate Overload


While leaving the dog in the crate overnight while you sleep is fine, leaving the pup in the crate all day while you're at work is not. Too much time in a crate can cause a dog to become restless or depressed.


Owners should train their dogs to be left home alone in a room or with free reign of the house so that crate training is not stressful for the puppy.



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Train A Beagle To Visit Potty Outdoors

Always praise a beagle when it goes potty outside.


Beagles adore food. This worship of food can help a beagle owner successfully house train a beagle puppy or adult dog. Beagles will do just about anything in order to be fed, including defecating or urinating outside. To help the beagle learn, the owner must clean up any accidents thoroughly and must learn the beagle's body language and normal elimination habits. Using a crate encourages beagles to hold their urine or feces until released, according to "Beagles" by Eve Adamson.


Instructions


1. Take the beagle outside immediately when it shows signs of needing to urinate or defecate. Adamson's "Beagles" says these behaviors include walking in small circles, sniffing, and scratching the floor. If the yard is unfenced, use a collar and leash. Beagles also need to defecate after a long nap or evening sleep, after they eat and during exercise such as a walk. Always praise the beagle for squatting or lifting a leg in the right place. Carry food treats and reward your beagle.


2. Clean accidents in the home thoroughly. The lingering scent of urine or feces cues a beagle as to where to go. The Humane Society of the United States recommends using an enzyme-based cleaner to remove these odors. Ammonia-based cleaners smell too much like urine to work. (See Reference 4)


3. Choose either a house-training crate or a room in the home where the beagle can be confined when it cannot be supervised. This will keep accidents to a minimum. The crate needs to be large enough so the beagle can lie down and can turn around in it. Dogs try hard never to soil their beds. But if a crate is not practical, keeping the beagle in just one room such as a kitchen can also work. Lay down old newspapers or house-training pads to help minimize mess and to train the beagle to go in one spot in the room.









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Get The Dog To Like The Crate

A lot of dogs do not like going into the crate, usually because there was some type of negative association made with the crate at an early age. If your dog or puppy does not like the crate--follow the steps in this article to change your dog's opinion of the crate--and actually get her to like it.


Instructions


1. It's important to understand that it will take a little time to get your dog to love the crate if they've already formed a negative association with it. So the first step is to be patient with your dog; it will take a little while to overcome this.


2. Start by feeding your dog every meal in the crate. Put the dog food bowl in the back of the crate. Your dog now has to go to the back of the crate to eat breakfast and dinner. If this is too much for your dog, you may have to put the food bowl in the front of the crate. As your dog starts to get comfortable, you can gradually move the food bowl further and further into the crate.


3. Anytime you give your dog a treat, toss the treat into the crate. Try to get your dog to go into the crate to get the treat. Again if this is too much for your dog, put the treat in the front of the crate and gradually move it further and further into the crate. Do not shut the door when your dog goes inside. At this point we are just working on getting your dog to go into the crate.


4. Whenever you give your dog a new toy, toss it into the back of the crate. Always try to get your dog to go into the crate to get the new toy.


5. As your dog starts to become comfortable with the crate, you can start to close the door, but don't latch it while your dog is eating. It's important for your dog to be able to push the door open if he desires.


6. Over time, as your dog becomes comfortable being in the crate with the door shut, you can start to latch the door. At first, latching the door should only be for a few seconds to a minute. Again, getting your dog to love the crate is a gradual process that will take a little time.


7. When you let your dog out of the crate, you can make a big deal about it. Praise your dog, play with your dog, tell her what a good girl she is. This way when your dog comes out of the crate your dog will be happy.


8. When you have to put your dog in the crate, don't make a big deal over it or fuss over your dog. It's important that you act very matter-of-fact as you put your dog into the crate. If you start to become emotional it will stress your dog out.


9. The only way to get your dog to love the crate is by associating it as a fun and positive place to be. This can be done by pairing the crate with anything that your dog likes. I once worked with a dog that loved a plastic watering can. We used this as a reward--and you can do the same thing with anything that your dog loves. Good luck!



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About Shock Collars

The shock collar is a device used to train dogs. A small box attached to the collar delivers an electric jolt when the owner wants the dog to stop a certain behavior. Also known as electronic collars, these devices were initially used to train hunting dogs and police dogs, but now they are widely available. Shock collars also can come with built-in GPS and anti-theft systems.


History


The use of the shock collar began in the 1960s. Hunters used them to control dogs that became overzealous when retrieving quarry. Though the early collars were not always reliable, the idea spread from sporting dog owners to regular pet owners. Unfortunately, there is no standard level for different brands of collars, and each dog has a different sensitivity to the shock. The more recent, top-of-the-line models allow the dog owner to control the intensity of the shock.


Containment


Shock collars are most commonly used to contain a pet inside a certain perimeter. In lieu of erecting an actual fence, the containment collar creates an invisible barrier that jolts the pet when it crosses over the boundary. The most common variation runs an underground wire around the yard. The wire, often called an electronic fence, is harmless to anyone but the pet with the collar. Most containment systems actually warn the dog with a humming or a vibration before the actual jolt is administered. This allows the pet to realize the shock is coming if it continues across the line.


Other Types


There are some collars that are designed to be controlled by a handheld device, which the owner uses to deliver the shock when the dog is misbehaving. It is a method of negative reinforcement that teaches the dog to stop a certain behavior or it will feel pain. Another type of device sits against the dog's throat, and through either microphone or vibration, emits a jolt when the dog barks.


Effects


Some studies have suggested the use of shock collars have ill effects on dogs. The Polsky study, in 2000, found that dogs trained with shock collars have become aggressive and violent toward humans near the perimeter of the electric fence. The study also found that the dogs lost some of their fear of humans. A 2007 study found that the use of shock collars raises the level of cortisol in dogs, proof that the collars increase stress in the dogs.


Controversy


Many animal rights proponents believe shock collars are inhumane to dogs. Some of these groups have started campaigns against the collars. For example, the Kennel Club in Great Britain has a group dedicated to ending shock collar use. These activists claim that collars are not only cruel but can be dangerous or life-threatening to the dog. In Australia, it is illegal to bring a shock collar through customs, but they are available for sale within the country.









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Thicken A Sauce

There are hundreds of ways to thicken sauces, but only a handful are commonly used. All of them are uncomplicated and easy to do. In each case, though, you'll need to start with some sort of base liquid that you'd like to make a sauce out of. Add this to my Recipe Box.


Instructions


1. Thicken most broths for gravies with roux, a cooked mixture of flour and a cooking fat (see Related eHow on roux for more details). Roux needs to be cooked first, but gravies made with it are virtually lump-free. Many cream soups are also thickened this way.


2. Use a cornstarch slurry to thicken fruit and vegetable juices. To make a slurry, dissolve 1 tbsp. cornstarch or flour in 2 tbsp. ice water, then whisk the slurry into 1 c. of boiling liquid. Simmer the sauce at least 15 minutes to allow the starch to work. Cornstarch is commonly used to thicken stir-fries and many Asian dishes.


3. Use a cooked vegetable puree to make a rustic sauce. For example, sauteed onions that are braised with a pot roast can be strained out, pureed and whisked back in to the braising liquid to create a flavorful sauce with no added fat.









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What's The Distinction Between The Alsatian & German Shepherd Dogs

The German shepherd is a powerful and athletic dog breed.


Fewer dog breeds appear as similar as the Alsatian (officially knows as the Alsatian shepalute or American Alsatian) and the German shepherd, and fewer breeds are so radically different. Matching only in appearance, these two breeds derive from different places and are bred for different purposes. While the Alsatian bloodline does have German shepherd in it, it has since diverged, and the Alsatian has been identified as a separate breed.


History


This dog has the thick-body bone structure of the Alsatian.


There is no comparable history between the Alsatian and the German shepherd. The German shepherd was bred in Germany beginning around 1899 as a high-drive working dog with high intelligence and protective instincts. The Alsatian was bred by California breeder Lois Schwartz in 1987 as a large-breed companion dog with little to no working drive. In order to achieve these traits, the line started with a German shepherd/Alaskan malamute cross. That achieved the size and appearance of the dog Schwartz wanted, but both of those breeds are able working dogs. Her goal was to eliminate the working drive. In order to mellow the breed out, she added English mastiff lines, along with Anatolian shepherd. The breed stabilized and became recognized in 2000.


Function


Always alert, the German shepherd is bred for work.


The German shepherd is a working dog. Suited for anything it can be trained for, it excels at obedience trials, protection work, search and rescue, agility, tracking, freestyle and herding. The Alsatian is a companion dog. Unsuitable for work, the dog makes a wonderful family pet. It possesses a very calm, stable temperament and is quite friendly.


Similarties


The German shepherd and Alsatian are extremely similar in appearance and color. Both breeds are easily trained and make wonderful family pets.


Differences


The size difference between the German shepherd and Alsatian is staggering. The Alsatian is a much larger dog, often outweighing the German shepherd by 20 to 40 pounds. Alsatians tend to live two to four years longer than German shepherds. The German shepherd breeding lines are riddled with health issues, while the Alsatian has been carefully bred to be a solid, healthy dog. Health problems haven't been seen in the Alsatian line since 2003.


Trainability


This Alsatian carries his toy.


Both breeds are easily trainable, although the German shepherd catches on far quicker. The Alsatian is a "thinker," a breed that must process and figure something out before acting on it. German shepherds immediately embody the lesson at hand and possess a need to constantly be learning.









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Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Dog Proof A Series Link Fence

Chain link fences provide protection for what's in your yard.


Chain link fences protect a yard well. They provide a means for keeping large animals and dogs outside of the yard, and pets and children within the confines of the yard. However, very smart and innovative dogs can find ways to get through the fence. With minimum effort and cost, you can find and shore up the weak spots in your fence so that even the smartest dogs will be discouraged and stop trying to wiggle or dig their way in or out.


Instructions


Inspection


1. Take a tour of the fence. Walk along the fence, carefully looking for any dips in the ground where the fence bottom rests. Also look for any bare dirt next to the fence that does not have grass or vegetation growing. Make a note of every spot that has a dip or bare soil. These are perfect points for a dog with motivation and digging ability to infiltrate the fence.


2. Take a look at the gate. Most gates have a fork latch that secures the gate so that it remains closed. A fork latch lifts up to open the gate, and drops down to close it. Many dogs are sharp enough to learn open the latch and open the gate. Make a note of the type of latch the gate has.


3. Look at the gap between the gate and the fence to see how many inches are between the gate and fence. If you have a double gate, look at the gap between the two gates when they are closed. Make note of any gaps 3 inches or larger.


Correction


4. Go back to each spot under the fence that has a dip in the ground. If there is a dip in the ground, place bricks or a large stone between the fence and the dip in the ground. This will help to prevent a dog from trying to squeeze underneath or dig through at that spot.


5. Go to each place that has a bare spot under the fence without a significant dip. Take tent stakes and drive them into the ground against the fence. Space the stakes so that they are 3 or 4 inches apart. Make sure the hook at the top of the stake tightly hooks the fencing wire near the bottom of the fence and that the stake will not slip. This will prevent dogs from digging in or out of the fence.


You need not try driving a stake if there is grass or vegetation along the fence, since the roots will usually discourage dogs from trying to dig. If a dog has started digging where there is vegetation, drive stakes wherever they have tried to dig, if it looks like they might succeed.


6. Go to each gate that has a fork latch. Cut a piece of rigid wire about 6 inches long and bend it into a U shape. Put the wire into the hole of the fork latch. This will prevent most dogs from opening the latch. If this fails, you will have to use a padlock to keep dogs from opening the gate.


7. Take a rod and drive it into the ground between the gate and fence, or between the gates, if any gate has more than a 3-inch gap between the gate and the fence, or between two gates. Otherwise, some dogs will be able to squeeze through. Make sure that you drive the rod so that its top lies below the gate latch so that it does not interfere with the gate's operation.









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Best Ten Breed Of Dogs For Cold Temperature

With its heavy coat, a Siberian Husky is a perfect cold-weather dog.


The best sort of dog for cold weather is a strong animal with a dense, woolly undercoat protected with coarse guard hairs. These coats must be carefully and regularly tended to by the dog's owner. These dogs were originally bred in the mountains, or areas that experience harsh winters like Sweden, Finland, Russia or the Arctic Circle.


Alaskan Malamute, Eskimo Dog


The Alaskan Malamute has a dense, double-layered coat that protects it from the cold. The coat has coarse outer guard hairs, and the undercoat is thick, woolly and oily. The dog is probably named after the Malhemut tribe, an Inuit people who lived in Northwest Alaska. The malamute is 23 to 28 inches high at the shoulder and weighs from 85 to 125 lbs. The Eskimo dog originated in the Arctic. It has the curly tail that is characteristic of spitz-type dogs and again possesses the dense coat of a dog that works best in the cold. It's 20 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weighs from 60 to 105 lbs. Spitz-type dogs are characterized by the tail that curls over the back, long, thick fur and pointed muzzles and ears. Some biologists believe spitzes are the oldest type of dog.


Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Laika


A Samoyed, bred in the Arctic, is also a good cold-weather dog.


The Samoyed was developed by the Samoyede people, who lived in the Arctic. It has a full, fluffy overcoat that stands away from its body and a dense undercoat. It's 18 to 22 inches high at the shoulder and can weigh 50 to 65 lbs. The Siberian Husky is used as a sled dog in the north. Like other cold weather dogs, it has a dense, woolly undercoat covered with tough guard hairs. It looks very much like a small wolf, being 20 to 23.5 inches high at the shoulder and weighing from 35 to 60 lbs. Laika is the Russian word for dog, and there are several breeds. They are spitz-like dogs and were first bred in Siberia and along Russia's border with Finland. They are used to pull sleds, and hunt bears, elk and reindeer. Laikas stand about 23 inches high at the shoulder and weight around 45 pounds.


Newfoundland, Greenland Dog


The Newfoundland's coat is so dark and unusually dense that its puppies resemble bear cubs. It originated in northwestern Canada and once helped fishermen haul their nets. It's about 26 to 28 inches high at the shoulder and may weigh up to 150 lbs. The Greenland dog is smaller than the Eskimo dog, at 22 to 25 inches high, but both dogs are judged by the same standards in some countries. Some people believe the Greenland dog was descended from Arctic wolves, and it does have a decidedly wolfish face. It's used to track the breathing holes of seals in the ice.


Norwegian Buhund, Swedish Lapphund, Pyrenean Mountain dog


The Norwegian Buhund has a curly spitz-like tail and can weigh 53 to 58 lbs. The Swedish Lapphund also has the spitz-like tail that curls over the back and a foxy face. It has a dense double coat that protects it from the Swedish winter. A solid-colored coat is preferred by experts. It's 17.5 to 19.5 inches high at the shoulder and weighs about 44 lbs. The Pyrenean Mountain dog can weigh up to 125 lbs. and can take four years to reach adulthood. It's of French origin and worked in the Pyrenees mountains. Its coarse coat helped it to withstand the conditions there.









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Tell What Type Of Dog I've

Some States have guidelines on what type of pit bulls are allowed.


Pit bull is the name given to a group of dogs including the American pit bull terrier, American Staffordshire terrier and the Staffordshire bull terrier. Other dogs are often mistakenly referred to as pit bulls, but only the three named above are officially pit bulls. If you have adopted an older dog, or have a new puppy, you may not know which type of pit bull you have. Distinguishing the pit bulls is usually possible, although some breeds look similar at a young age.


Instructions


1. Weigh your dog. This is only fully accurate on an adult dog, but with a younger dog, you should be able to accurately predict a future weight. American pit bull terriers usually weigh between 35 and 65 pounds. American Staffordshire terriers typically weigh 65 and 90 pounds, and Staffordshire bull terriers weigh from 28 to 38 pounds.


2. Look at your dog's build. American pit bull terriers have a proportionate head and body. American Staffordshire terriers have a muscular, square look, while Staffordshire bull terriers have a noticeably broad head.


3. Feel your dog's coat. Although all pit bulls have similar coats, there are differences between the three types. American pit bulls have short, smooth hair, while American Staffordshire terriers have thicker hair. Staffordshire bull terriers also have smooth, short hair.


4. Compare your dog to pictures online. Most dogs have a variety of colors, so look for dogs of a similar color to your own. If your dog looks like a mix of two breeds, he may be a cross.


5. Take your dog to a vet to establish his age, breed and health. This is important, as it will ensure your dog is healthy, and will give you verified information you can use to insure your new dog.









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Use A Chain Link Fence In An Position

Building chain link fencing at an angle requires some careful wire cutting.


While installing a straight and level course of chain link fence is relatively simple, setting a section of fence up or down a steep grade can prove challenging. The posts must remain vertical, but the fabric of the chain-link fence must follow the fence line itself. This requires careful cutting of the fabric at an angle so that it can fasten to each terminal post that holds it in place. A process of cutting and bending the ends of the wires allows the fence to fit to the angle of the ground beneath it.


Instructions


1. Locate the line the fence will take. Mark the highest spot and the next-lowest spot along the fence line with surveyor's paint where the bottom of the installed fence will be close enough to the ground to provide adequate security. With the post-hole digger, dig a hole 30 inches deep and 8 inches wide so the sides of the hole flare outward from the opening.


2. Insert a terminal post into each hole. Mix some concrete, and pour it into each hole. Hold a short section of fence fabric up against the fence posts at the angle of the ground to determine the proper height of each post. Adjust the height of the posts to accommodate the required height of the fabric. True the posts with the carpenter's level. Smooth the concrete downward and away from the posts with the trowel. Allow the concrete to cure for 24 hours.


3. Attach a top rail end to each end of a section of top rail. Attach the top rail brackets to the top of the fence posts. Attach the rail ends to the top rail brackets using nuts and bolts. Connect a tension band to the bottom of each post. Attach the tension wire to these tension bands.


4. Cut a section from the chain-link fabric roll using the bolt cutters. The section should be long enough to cover the entire section of fence with adequate overlap on either end.


5. Set the fabric against the fence. Position the top edge of the fabric along the top rail, and fasten the end of the fabric on the high end of the fence to the top rail with three or four wire fence ties, using a pair of pliers. Overlap the bottom of the chain-link fabric on the terminal post.


6. Slide a tension bar down into the links at that end of the fabric so that the tension bar is parallel to the nearby terminal post. Place tension bands around the bottom, top and middle of the post. Connect the tension bands to the tension bar with nuts and bolts.


7. Attach a chain-link fabric stretcher to the post at the opposite end of the section of fence. Slide a tension bar into the chain-link fabric approximately 3 feet from the low end of the fabric. Connect the spreader to the tension bar, and apply tension to the spreader to tighten the fabric.


8. Slide a third tension bar into the links in the fabric so it is parallel to the nearby post and the end of the tension bar is in the last link at the bottom end of the fabric section. Fasten this tension bar to the terminal post nearby with three tension bands.


9. Disconnect the stretcher from the fence and remove the middle tension bar. Cut the wires in the chain link fabric that extends past the end tension bars to remove the overlapping fabric, leaving enough wire to bend around the tension bars with the pliers.


10. Attach the chain link fence fabric section to the top rail of the fence with wire fence ties. Clip the bottom of the chain link fabric to the tension wire at the bottom of the fence section with the hog rings.









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Know If Your Pup Is Really A Blue Nose/Red-colored Nose Pitbull

A blue nose pit bull.


Owners may find understanding their pit bull breed confusing, and for good reason. Despite its long history, the pit bull breed is highly variable. The term pit bull can refer to the American Kennel Club-recognized American Staffordshire terrier and the United Kennel Club-recognized American Pit Bull Terrier. These two types of dogs are considered by some to be the same breed, despite their subtle differences. The pit bull nose can be any color under the UKC standards. However, the AKC standards favor a black nose, although a different-colored nose is still acceptable. Red and blue are other common nose colors for the pit bull breed.


Instructions


1. Command your dog to sit. It is easier to examine your dog's nose while it is sitting still. If you cannot get it to still for long, take a photograph of its face from the front.


2. Examine the pit bull's nose from the front. You need to see the entire front of the dog's nose to determine its color.


3. Determine the color of your dog's nose. If it is red or reddish-brown in color, then you have a red-nose pit bull. If it is gray or light black, then you have a blue-nose pit bull. Other colors include black and pink. "Butterfly" noses are red with lighter pink patches.









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Just When Was A Pet Considered Abandoned

Most pets are treated as part of the family.


Pets have become an integral part of life across the globe. Most of the time, these pets are well cared for and loved. Unfortunately, there are some pet owners that find the task of raising an animal difficult and several pets are abandoned each year. Abandonment can happen at veterinarian offices, kennels, animal shelters or even public places. Each state defines the amount of time before a pet is considered abandoned, and there are protocols that need to be followed before transferring the animal or selling it.


Abandoned at a Facility


If the animal is left at a veterinarian, kennel or similar facility without the owner paying for services and collecting the animal, it will be considered abandoned after a certain amount of days. The amount of days varies for each state (see "Holding Period" section below). The facility will notify the owner that the animal is ready for pickup upon payment of services. If the owner fails to respond to this notification, the facility can take the animal to an animal shelter or sell it. Usually, the facility lets the owner know which shelter the animal is located. The animal shelter then has ownership of the animal, if the state appointed time has passed, and the owner has refused to respond or pick up the animal.


Selling the Animal


The veterinarian that has treated the animal has the choice to sell the animal if it has been abandoned. The owner must be notified 10 to 20 days prior to the sale, and this is in addition to the "holding period" time. The veterinarian cannot destroy the animal but just sell it or transfer it to an animal shelter.


Abandonment in a Public Place


A pet owner that leaves an animal in a public place, for a certain amount of time, can be charged with a misdemeanor. Once the animal is found abandoned, it is given appropriate care and shelter, such as veterinarian treatment. Animals found in public places without identification tags or proper licensing, will be immediately taken to an animal shelter facility. If the owner tries to reclaim the animal, he must pay local penalties and any other charges that have accrued.


Holding Period


Each state is different on the required holding periods at veterinarian, kennels and similar facilities. They also vary on holding time at animal shelters. Fourteen days is the average amount of time needed before the animal is considered abandoned at a veterinarian, kennel or other facility. After this period, the animal is transferred to an animal shelter when a new holding period starts. These holding periods can range from a few days to a week. The Federal Pet Theft Act requires a five day holding period before the animal is sold to a dealer or destroyed. Check with your local veterinarian, kennel or animal shelter to inquire about your state's specific holding period.









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The Very Best Landscape designs For Any Yard With Dogs

Design a yard that is safe and enjoyable for all family members.


When landscaping with four-legged family members in mind, take into consideration not only that you have dogs, but the habits of the particular breeds. If you know your dog digs, runs laps in your yard or regularly shops in your vegetable garden, these are personality traits that need to be incorporated into your landscape design. You need to design it with safety, maintenance and the goals for yard enjoyment by both people and pets in mind.


Safe Romping Space


In a home with multiple dogs that like to use the back yard for self-exercising and roughhousing, leaving an open space is essential. Begin your landscape with perimeter dog-safe fencing that is appropriate for your yard. Consider privacy fencing for homes situated in busy areas and chain link fencing if you'd prefer to keep a view. Make fences high enough for your dog's safety and reinforce the area where the fence meets the ground if your dogs tends to dig. Cement blocks lined under the ground just below the fence line typically does the trick.


Watch the patterns that your dogs take if they run in your yard. Lay a path of chat rock or other suitable high traffic path material in those areas to provide a solid running surface. Create a green space using the most sturdy turf available. If sturdy turf is not an option, consider a low maintenance dog safe ground cover that will withstand romping, but be comfortable for their feet and not attract bugs or snakes. Your local garden center will have suggestions based on your location.


Complete the landscape plan with raised seating and potted plants to give the yard appeal for your family. Consider adding a small fenced rock scape potty area off to one side of the yard that can be easily maintained. Train the dogs to use that area to eliminate keeping the rest of the space family friendly.


Small Space Design


Make small yards appropriate for dogs by creating open areas blended with features that enhance the yard for family enjoyment. Choose a dog-safe fence for the perimeter and design a yard around a large deck or patio that can be accessed from the back of your home. If you have multiple dogs, choose composite materials instead of wood for decking. Place seating, a dog-safe water feature or fire pit in this area for family enjoyment. In one corner of the backyard install the largest dog run that the space will allow. This will give the dogs their own area of the yard in which to spend time when they are not supervised. Pour a cement floor and cover the run with shade fabric. Landscape around the exterior of the run to make it blend seamlessly into the design. Plant dog-safe, non-poisonous, native-plant gardens within the remainder of the yard, weaving through paths made of brick or pavers. Avoid using materials proven to be dangerous to dogs such as treated mulch, clam shells or pea gravel.


Living Large


If you are fortunate enough to have a yard with acreage, your plans may be limited only by your imagination and budget. Break a large yard into separate-use spaces, providing your dogs with yard space that is all their own. Fence the area for the dogs, making it as large as you desire. Use dog-safe fencing that enhances the overall landscaping of the yard. Make the dog area a wonderland for your dogs. Build them a digging pit by containing commercial grade sand or add a dog-safe wading pool. Lay rock paths throughout the space to lead to play areas. Design a whimsical dog house to complete the space, adding heating and cooling if necessary. Shade is a must, so if you can't take advantage of trees, build a shade cover somewhere in the space.









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Monday, October 28, 2013

Develop A Cheap Dog Kennel

The following article is a step-by-step guide on build an affordable dog kennel for outdoor use.


Instructions


Setting Up the Outdoor Kennel


1. The first thing involved in creating an outdoor kennel is to ensure the housing is up to laws and regulations for your county. The basic laws throughout America require a sturdy shelter and ample food and water for the dog.


After reviewing what is required, clean the outdoor area of any debris that may pose a threat to the dog.


2. Measure the fencing material out for a reasonable area for the dog to move around.


Having only a small area for the dog can cause it to become stressed and even aggressive. More room will prevent the dog from becoming territorial.


Place the fence posts around the designated area and ensure the height of the fence is at least two times that of the dog, so that it may not jump out.


Some counties also require you to place a "beware of dog" sign on these kennels. This can also protect you from anyone trespassing on your property and possibly being bit.


3. Place the shelter into the designated area. Shelters can range in price from $30 to $100 depending on the size required for the animal.


It's important to place cedar shavings or blankets in the shelter to prevent the dog from freezing or becoming too warm in the sun. Never use straw or pine needles. The dog can get mange from the moisture collected in them.


4. Now all that is needed are the food and water bowls and optional toys to keep your dog busy. By providing a healthy amount of activities where the dog is being stimulated or socialized, there is a much better chance it will not become territorial.


Ensuring that the dog has food at least twice a day and water throughout the entire day will keep it healthy and active.


5. To help warm the dog during the winter months, consider placing an outdoor 60-watt light bulb in the kennel. Be sure to use a waterproof extension cord to connect it to a power source. It would be a good idea would be to place wire mesh around the light bulb, or use an outdoor utility light caging area.


6. If fencing costs too much, there is an option of purchasing a harness and shelter. This does not mean simply mean placing a collar and chain from post to dog, as this can harm the dog. Most retail pet stores sell proper harnesses that do not choke the animal, whereas collars can become tight as the dog grows older and grows fur.


Placing a stake into the ground with proper room for the dog to run and still gain access to its shelter is another alternative to fencing, but not as safe.



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Know If My Dog Has Kennel Cough

Fatigue is a symptom of kennel cough.


Kennel cough, like many human respiratory infections, is something that spreads easily. In fact, most dogs will have kennel cough at one point or another during their life. Like the human cold and flu, there are a number of different viruses and bacteria that can cause kennel cough. There are vaccines to protect against the most common causes, but since you can't protect against all strains it is a good idea to know the symptoms of kennel cough in case your dog gets sick.


Instructions


1. Pay attention to the cough. A dog that has kennel cough will typically have a dry hacking cough. The cough often sounds similar to the honking sound that ducks make. They may also gag, vomit, or dry heave after a coughing spell.


2. Check your dog to see if he has a runny nose. It is not uncommon for dogs with kennel cough to have a thin nasal discharge.


3. Pay attention to your dog's energy level. A dog with kennel cough may become lethargic and sleep more often than normal. He may also tire more quickly during exercise. However, a mild case of kennel cough may not affect his energy level.


4. Watch your dog's appetite. Dogs with more severe cases of kennel cough often lose their appetite. They may eat small amounts of food leaving the bulk of their meal behind or they may forgo eating altogether.


5. Check your dog for fever. A dog's normal body temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Dogs do not typically display outward signs of fever, so if you suspect illness you can take your dog's temperature with a canine ear thermometer or rectal thermometer.



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Identify A United States Dog Terrier

An American Pit Bull Terrier


The American Pit Bull Terrier, sometimes referred to as an ABPT is a dog which has a very bad reputation in American thanks to its history. This species was bred from Bull and Terrier breeds centuries ago as a pit fighter. Yes. It was bred for the purpose of fighting dogs and predatorial animals in a pit for the amusement of a crowd. Technically this dog fits into the Mastiff category, and is very powerful in spite of its small size. In reality this dog is eager to please its master and makes an excellent working dog and companion provided it’s been well raised and treated appropriately. Many different types of mutt and near feral dogs, which are truly dangerous to people, look similar to the ABPT. For that reason here is a guide on identify the relatively benign American Pit Bull Terrier.


Instructions


Identifying An American Pit Bull Terrier


1. Begin by looking at the dog’s general shape and build. The dog should be about two feet high at the shoulder and can weigh between 35 and 55 pounds. Some accounts of Pit Bulls reaching a monstrous 110 pounds exist, but these are erroneous and are in fact references to half breeds or different species of dog altogether. One should get an overall sense of power from the dog. It should be thick chested and heavily muscled with short sturdy legs and powerful shoulders to allow for the dog’s surprising agility. The tail should be thin, nondescript, and held low about halfway to the ground. Most dog’s bodies taper in width nearer down toward the dog’s rear, but this one should not. It should be a thick rectangle.


2. Look at the dog’s coat. The dog’s fur should be short, sleek and glossy. An ABPT can come in any color or pattern, but the fur will always appear to shine in the sun. To the touch the skin beneath the fur is very thick, though held tightly against the body. This is both to make it tougher for an attacker to pierce the dog’s skin and prevent an attacker from getting an easy grip or bite on a loose fold or flap.


3. Examine the dog’s head. It should be held up by a massively thick neck which should dwarf the back of the skull and make it appear small by comparison, though it’s in fact a much larger skull than one would expect. It should be especially broad and wide across the cheeks, not narrowing much down the muzzle, to allow for the large teeth and large powerful jaw muscles. The eyes should be set widely apart and recessed protectively in the skull, they can be any color except blue. The ears should be set far back and to the sides of the head and be somewhat shapeless and flopped over. If the dog matches this description then you’re looking at a purebred American Pit Bull Terrier.









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Train A Jack Russell Terrier Puppy To Fetch A Ball

Your Jack Russell is intelligent enough to learn fetch quickly with little training.


The Jack Russell Terrier is a dog that was originally bred in England for fox hunting. The Russell Terrier is described as game but not troublesome, according to the American Kennel Club. The instincts the dog was bred with will enable it to pick up the game of fetch relatively easily. Most dogs, and Terrier breeds especially, are quick to chase a moving toy or ball. Teaching your Jack Russell to play fetch will consist of timing and teaching your dog to return with the toy or ball. Your dog should know basic obedience commands such as "come" and "drop it" before attempting to learn this game.


Instructions


1. Place training treats in your pocket or in a solid bag or sack that your puppy cannot see through.


2. Sit down on the floor with your puppy and a ball. Start by rolling the ball only a few feet away. When your puppy chases the ball and and picks it up in his mouth, praise him and reward him with a treat. Use a clicker to signal to your puppy that he has done as you asked before praising and rewarding him if you already use a clicker in training.


3. Repeat Step 2 until your puppy consistently goes after the ball and picks it up at least three times. When your Jack Russell does not chase or pick up the ball, ignore the dog and wait 20 to 30 seconds before trying again.


4. Roll the ball at least 5 feet away. When your puppy chases and picks up the ball, praise and reward him immediately. If you use a clicker for training, you must click, praise and reward him within seconds of him picking up the ball. Repeat this exercise while changing and extending the distance you roll the ball.


5. Roll the ball away as you have been doing but withhold praise and reward. Now each time your puppy chases and picks up the ball, instead of praise call him to you. The instant your dog reaches you with the ball praise him and reward him. If your dog does not know the "come" command, try going back to basic obedience commands before continuing to teach your dog to play fetch. According to Victoria Stilwell's "Have the Perfect Pet" basic obedience, commands are important to your dog's and other people's safety. They should be taught before tricks and games. If your dog drops the ball before returning or does not come to you, ignore him and try again after 30 seconds.


6. Practice getting your dog to chase, pick up and return to you with the ball. Praise and reward should come instantly when he brings the ball to you. When your dog consistently brings the ball to you, begin using the "drop it/leave it" command to get your dog to drop the ball before praising and rewarding him. Go through the entire process over and over until your dog can consistently go get the ball, bring it back and drop it.


7. Continue to play fetch with your dog. He knows do it and now needs only to learn the command. Start each game with the word "fetch." When your dog goes through the motions, returns with the ball and drops it, praise and reward him. Repeat this regularly. Your Jack Russell can now play fetch, and with consistent training he will learn and remember what "fetch" means and what is expected of him.









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