Barbed wire fences stand proud in cattle producing areas of the United States as a testiment to their long term durability.
Barbed wire helped conquer the American West. By the 1880s it was ubiquitous, subdividing large ranches, protecting cattle from newly laid railroad tracks and cattle rustlers. (Reference 1) While barbed wire is not the ideal fence for penning every kind of animal, it makes an excellent fence for cattle and other extremely large animals that can easily (and accidentally) tear down woven or welded wire fences. Installing a new barbed wire fence is not easy, but with careful planning a fence that will last for many years can be constructed at a relatively small cost.
Instructions
1. Place a corner post by digging a 3-foot deep hole with the post hole diggers and setting the soil aside. Put the first corner post in the hole and fill with the soil, being sure to tamp the soil firmly. If the post is still loose, you may want to fill the hole with gravel and quick-set cement instead. (Reference 3)
2. Use a 6- to 8-foot long wooden post to support this corner post by wedging the top of the support post against the top of the corner post and the bottom of the support post in the ground at an angle. The support post should press against the corner post, providing tension for the barbed wire fence. (Reference 3) If the fence goes in two directions, wedge another support post at a 90 degree angle to the first, in the direction of the fencing.
3. Tie the string to the corner post and pull it as far as you can, or to the next corner post. Tie the string off, this will serve as a guide to set your T-posts. (Reference 2)
4. Using the T-post driver, drive the T-posts at eight- to twelve-foot intervals (Reference 2), starting from the corner posts. To use a T-post driver, push the T-post partly into the ground and raise the driver above the post, with the open part of the tube facing down. Grasp the handles from the top and drop the driver on to the T-post while applying pressure (T-posts are significantly easier to drive when the ground is wet, but not mushy). Generally speaking, as long as the triangle-shaped metal piece on the bottom of the post is below ground level and the post shows no inclination to move when wiggled, the post is set properly.
5. Attach the barbed wire to the corner post by wrapping the wire around the post and making a loop, finishing by wrapping the barbed wire back on to itself about six inches. Secure to the post with barbed wire staples.
6. Run the barbed wire to the first corner, unraveling the reel of fencing as you go. Use the fence stretcher to keep the tension up while you attach the barbed wire to the metal posts with a wire clip. (Reference 2) Be sure to run the fence wire across the front of the posts, using the raised squares as a guide to keep the wire straight.
7. Fit the pointed end of the clip over the back of the post. Clip the shorter hook on the clip to the fence first. Using a pair of pliers, clamp the two hooks down on the fence wire to secure it and hold the tension. Repeat to the corner post and for each strand of wire.
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